My view

Off of my bedroom I have two little balconies. From one balcony, I have a view into the city, and I can watch the sunset. It's wonderful. From the other, I see onto the deck of somebodies very nice penthouse. Everyday an old man with saggy breasts wearing only boxers pulled up to his chest spends a good deal of time watering plants and sunbathing. That's my view.

Like Water

This week I've been super-busy taking a semi-intensive tango course (on top of my 4 hour spanish course), which means class every night for 2 hours. After class on Monday I wasn't so sure about it. I liked the tango part, but the teaching feels a little new agey. We kept doing exercises to relax our bodies, and one of them was pushing your partner on different spots of their body, seeing how their body reacts and trying to get them to be loose where they seem to be tense. Weird. I don't particularly like pushing strangers, and I really don't like being pushed by strangers. I'm just not that touchy, and I don't know these men. And I suppose these exercises are exactly what I need considering I am tense as can be, but it's still strange.

The tango is coming along well though. I can definetely do more now than I could on Monday. Tonights class had highs and lows. It started out great, and I was dancing like a tango star until I had to be like water and occupy spaces that were made me for me. This made no sense. In order to get to spaces that were made for me I had to take a million steps fumbling over my partners feet that always seemed to be in the water. And I most certainly didn't feel like water, nor could I imagine water every being in this situation. Of course, my confusion was followed by everyone trying to tell me how to be like water in different ways. Nobody ventured another analogy. So, I failed at trying to feel like water and succeded in feeling like my partner was throwing me around the dance floor. That was the low. It sort of leveled out to nuetral after that.

Tomorrow is the last night of the tango course, so we're all heading out to a milonga afterwards. I'm not sure if I'll be dancing or not. I think I'll be too nervous to dance, but I might give it a go with one of the men from class. This will also be the first time that I get to watch tango since I started learning. Should be interesting.

All things BsAs

Every other tile on the sidewalk is broken with high potential for danger for jandal-laden feet. All of the subway stations have televisions in them, mostly playing 30 seconds of pop music videos very loudly. The bus drivers hardly stop for you to get on and off the bus. You have got to be ready, no pussyfooting or you'll be in serious trouble. In my very very concrete urban neighborhood there are about 5 places to buy lawn-mowers. There are no lawns within any vicinity of my neighborhood. Kids here have the whole selling things on subway trains down. They walk up and down selling notepads, flashy light thingies, toys, anything. Kids here also have the whole selling things anywhere they possibly can down. Eating inside or outside of a restaurant there's usually at least one kid that will pop in with their box of whatever. I haven't stopped in any dogshit yet, which is some sort of miracle. I'm sure that when time comes I'll be in jandals though.

On a completely different note, living with boys sucks. I know that it's person specific and all, but right now it's 3 boys and no good. They don't know how to dry off before they get out of the shower. They got out and get the floor soaking wet, so the next person can walk in with their shoes on get it all muddy. They leave used floss in on the bathroom counter. Gross. I don't know them well enough to deal with seeing used floss. They assume that I am not a red wine drinker and that the bottle of red wine on the kitchen counter must be theirs because it's been there for a few days. They also have heart to heart talks with each other that make me want to die. Boys are weird.

Jardin Botanico

Now that I'm fully recovered from my weekend, I'm back out and exploring the city. Yesterday I took a trip to the botanical gardens. I saw some great gardens in Australia, and I had high hopes for the gardens here. My first impression of the garden was that it was a little sparse. As I wandered around I saw some trees, some plants, some statues, some cats. And then I saw some cats, some cats and some more cats. I saw an old glass house with some broken windows that some cats were crawling in. I usually like wandering in greenhouses and checking out all the plants, but I wasn't so sure with all those cats. So, I skipped that. And what did I see when instead? Some other cats. At first it was just one cat here and there, then there were like 5 or 6 cats together and then they were everywhere. Seriously, everywhere. I was dodging them on the path. I've never been so creeped out by a garden. I ended up rushing through and couldn't stop thinking about how horrified I would be if I were trapped in there at night. Gives me the chills.

Last night I had my second tango class. It went very well. A girl took me aside and gave me a private lesson of the basic step, and now I'm catching on. It makes a whole lot more sense when you the basics. I'm good until I have to give leading a go. But I avoid that at all costs. Just as last week, I stayed after class for some drinks and pizza talking with a couple of Argentinian girls. I think I may be starting to make some friends here, which is just what I wanted.
My day started out absolutely brilliant today. I ditched my roommates in the morning and opted to take the subte instead of a taxi. The taxis here are cheap, but it's about 3 times more than the subte, and I think I should be saving money wherever I can. And I don't particularly like taking taxis everywhere. Really not for me. So, I had a coffee and went into the estación to wait for la trene. I was sneezing like crazy, and the woman next to me asked if I had allergies. Now, normally this would be nothing. However, she asked and I understood. I was even able to reply to her. We continued to have a whole conversation en español while waiting for the train. Mind you, it was a little botched, but I actually understood her and she actually understood me. I was and still am totally amazed. It was the confidence booster I needed. Yesterday I was feeling how hard this was not being able to communicate, and today I feel like I am more than capable of making it happen. Feels good.

I have a tango class tonight again. It's the same one I went to last time. I am going to try to take more classes starting this week. The same teacher may come to my spanish school and teach some classes. They'd be pretty small classes, so it would be pretty cool. But I think I'm going to look into some other tango schools also. They're everywhere so I shouldn't have a problem. I'll just have to start dancing with boys.

Nothing juicy

I have nothing juicy to tell about my set up. While she was a very nice woman, the chemistry just wasn't there. I did however have a great night out. After the photo exhibition we went to a very obscure bar in some obscure neighborhood. I still have no idea exactly where I was. And I certainly wouldn't be able to make it back there on my own. The bar was very hip and doubled as an art space. BsAs is apparently a very gay city, but I haven't noticed. It was great to go to a bar and see that there a ton of lesbians in the city, and I just need to open my eyes. No exciting stories to tell about the night, just good fun.

Saturday night was a bit crazier. I went with the women from my school to one of their friends apartments for some drinks and then headed out on my own to a party. The bar that I was at Friday night has a big party about once a month in some theatre. Everything in BsAs functions on a completely different time schedule than I am used to, so I didn't even leave for the party until 3 am. I'm still not sure how I even was still awake at that time. The party was big and crazy. I ran into all the people I met the night before. I'm not sure what the limitations are on age at these things, but I was sort of on the upper end. Nonetheless, I stayed and danced until 5:30 and headed home with the rising sun. I think I was probably one of the first to leave. I walked by cafés that we're packed on my way home. These people seem to have no concept of time. A whole different world.

hmmm...

There's certain things that come along with not knowing the language where you are. Conversations that I have with people, or particulary groups of people, are only half understood on my part. Half is probably a huge over-estimate. 5-10% is more like it. So, sometimes I don't really understand completely whats going on or what I am saying. The whole point of this is that I've been set up. I am going to a photography exhibit tonight and meeting one of my spanish teachers single friends. I knew that they wanted to set me up, but I didn't think they'd work so quickly. I don't think I've ever been set up before, and I have very mixed feelings about it. I'm feeling a little nervous to say the least... For many reasons that I'm sure you all can guess, so I won't bother listing them. Think good thoughts for me.

Normal?

I went out to dinner tonight with my German roommate Peter, and things were back to normal. I asked for a menú, and the waiter brought it. I ordered my food, no questions were asked and I got what I wanted. I asked for the bill, the waiter told me how much, and I understood. So, I am not crazy and the waiter that I had at lunchtime is. I feel much better. I also ate lunch at the same time that locals do, which is like 10:00 pm. I've been trying to go out for dinner later and later each day. When I went out at 8:00 I would be the only one in a restaurant. Tonight going out at 10:00 there were actually waits. I have to wonder what time these people go to bed when they are eating this late. I'm convinced that their 8 hours of sleep are broken up between the early morning hours and an afternoon siesta, or they simply catch up on missed sleep during the week on Saturday and Sunday when things don't seem to open until afternoon. Slowly, but truly I'm adjusting to how these people live. Though I do think it's a little crazy.

I can't learn spanish fast enough.

I had the most frustrating experience ordering food today. I went to a restaurant and sat down. There was a board on the wall with some meals listed, and I tried to ask the waiter if that was the entire menú. He didn't get what I was trying to say, and we went back and forth for what felt like years. All he did was look at me like I was absolutely crazy. And it's not like menú is some crazy hard word, it's the same! I think the most frustrating thing is that I knew what I wanted to say and I pretty much knew how to say and he didn't get it. Before I've known what I wanted to say and had no idea how to say it and had no problem at all. I ended up ordering some food and whatever, so the situation was salvagable, but frustrating enough that I wished I could hide under the table. So, I'm back at my apartment, and I think I'm going to force myself to go get a coffee and do some writing so I don't completely avoid interacting with people en español. I must be able to communicate.

In other news, it's been raining in Buenos Aires for the past 3 days, so I haven't done too much exploring. It's nice knowing I have so much time, so I don't feel pressured to go go go. It rains, so I stay in and read or siesta. I think I'll forever be ruined for short vacations. I don't know how people could only go somewhere for only one week. It's so wonderful not to feel rushed, but that I can explore the city on my own time. Besides, if I felt rushed I would probably be stepping in dog shit all the time. It's everywhere in this city, totally disgusting. But the sidewalks are such a mess with broken concrete and trash that you pretty much walk looking down anyway. You have to look up to see the beauty in Buenos Aires though. If you always look down you would find it disgusting. And so, you have to stop and look around.

Queer Tango

Tonight I had my first queer tango lesson, and it was wonderful. It was at a hip little bar in San Telmo, my very own neighborhood. I danced with maybe 5 girls over the course of the night, most of whom were able to translate the teachers lessons into english. Thank goodness for them. And I would tell you more, but it is late, and I am tired.

habla español?

Um, no. I don't think the people at the school believed me when i said i knew absolutely no spanish. They somehow thought when I said none, that what I really meant to say was that I understood a little. I started out class this morning with a few other people so they could assess me. I think they learned quickly that I was telling the truth about knowing nothing. I wonder if it must be painful to teach somebody like me. Because I'm the only beginner starting this week, I get private lessons. It's probably a good thing. This way I only embarass myself in front of my teacher, not other students. I can still pretend that I'm cool in front of the students.

After my spanish lesson, I had a chat with the owner of the school. She was more than excited to hear that I was a lesbian. The schools website mentions that it is queer friendly, but they've apparently only had gay men. So, she's giving me info on the scene here. And she wants to set me up with someone. I think that's pretty funny, but I'm not so sure... However, it is wonderful to meet lesbians in this city and learn that there is a scene. It makes me look forward to the next couple of months even more.

When I left the spanish school I planned to take a long walk and check out the Botanical Gardens. In the middle of that long walk there were several shoe stores. There were also several small clothing stores with wonderful tank tops. And then there happened to be a coffee shop with air conditioning. I never made it to the Botanical Gardens. I think I maybe acting out with all of this shopping that I'm doing. Part of it is that everything is cheap, though it's not so cheap when you buy everything. The other part of it is that I've been wearing the same 2 shirts for the past 5 months, and I am so incredibly sick of them. I'm on a rampage to have a whole new wardrobe that consists of more than two shirts. So far, so good.

Tango=Sex

I just came back from my first milango, which is basically a night of tango dancing. Not yet knowing how to tango, I just sat and observed. And do you know what I learned? Tango is sex, albeit sex with clothes on, but sex nonetheless. Everything down to the looks on their faces: sex. So, now I'm thinking about learning the tango, and I'm a little nervous. I'm really rooting for the queer tango bit, because I'm not so sure about learning tango with a boy. Very scary.

Walk, sleep, walk, sleep

This morning I checked out of my hotel and moved into my apartment. It's amazing that one month in the apartment cost just slightly more than 2 nights in a hotel. Isn't that disgusting? It's great to be in the apartment. I put all of my clothes in the wardrobe and my books on a shelf. I'm more at home than I've been in months. I had lunch with my new roommates, took a long nap through the hottest part of the day and headed back out into the city.

Today I explored San Telmo a bit more, Defensa and got just over into La Boca. I keep running into amazing art everywhere. I'm going to rework my budget to incorporate purchases somehow... My neighborhood (San Telmo) is filled to the brim with all of these crazy antique shops. Some of the stuff looks like absolute junk, but for the most part it's pretty cool. On Sundays they have a huge antiques market, or so I hear, and I will definetly check it out tomorrow. I have to figure out when to go though. People don't seem to get moving here until late in the day. They party too hard all night long. Defensa has all sorts of fun little shops, art galleries and cafés. I really didn't get to see much of La Boca, but I think I'll head back tomorrow. At first I got sidetracked by a market (I just can't resist the markets..), but then I got sidetracked again by a rock show in the park. The band playing was pretty good. Of course I had no idea what they were saying, but who listens to lyrics anyway? So, I stayed and listened to them for quite a while. I was trying to figure out the crowd, but I couldn't quite do it. I have a hard time telling peoples ages here. The younger ones in the crowd were doing some sort of moshing something or other. I alsmost wanted to tell them that moshing is sort of over and that the music wasn't really the moshing sort anyway. But they were happy, and if I really wanted to tell them I wouldn't be able to anyway.

Success!

Today was my first full day in Buenos Aires, and it was a success. I am so happy to be in this city. It's huge, and I am constantly getting lost, but I think that's the best way to learn my way around. The city is huge however. I think I could walk around every day that I'm in this country and still get lost. I'll just have to give it a try and see. My success today was two-fold. I found a spanish school that made me feel warm and fuzzy and I found an apartment that did the same. I am moving into the apartment tomorrow and staring spanish classes on monday.

After travelling around for nearly 5 months I cannot wait to unpack my bag somewhere. I am going to make my new room beautiful. Anyone who's known me for a while knows that I never do anything in my bedroom. I always leave it pretty bare because I know that in a year I'll have to take everything down, and I know that a year will go by pretty fast. I'm not sure if I've changed or if it's just the situation, but I want to make this room mine. So, after I've unpacked my bag I'm going to the market to get some plants and somethings to put on the wall. I'm so excited. I'll post pictures sometime after I move in.

The start of spanish classes will be a good thing indeed. I keep avoiding eating until I'm starving because I know that I'm going to have to make a fool of myself trying to order in a restaurant. It's the simple things that are really confusing. I still can't figure out if I seat myself or if I should wait. And sometimes trying to ask if I seat myself gets all weird and confusing. It is getting a little easier though. I look frantically through my phrase book before I go into a restaurant, but then of course they talk back to me, and I'm clueless again. The funniest exchange though had to be when I was looking at the apartment. The landlord speaks no english, not that he would be expected to. The conversation consisted of a lot of smiling, a lot of laughing, the occasional writing and one opening of the spanish phrase book. Without any spanish I was able to talk him down on the price though. I thought that was pretty good. I can't wait to be able to have normal conversations with people here though. Hopefully with 20 hours a week of spanish classes that will happen sooner than later.

I think this is getting a bit long. I'll stop so everybody reading at work can get back to their jobs. Remind me why you still have jobs again?

Buenos Aires

So, I'm finally in Buenos Aires. It only took two days or something like that... My flights got off to a great start when the 10 year old in front of me flung his seat back so fast that I got smacked in the head. But I don't mind so much because I slept nearly the whole flight to LA. I have to say it was a little strange to be back in the states, even though it was for such a short amount of time. While I´ve been gone I´ve made a very conscious effort not to support American companies and suddenly I was faced with all American companies, and I was hungry so I supported them. It felt strange though. In LAX everyone was speaking loud and yakking away on their cell phones. I did not miss that one bit. But by the time I got to Miami things weren´t feeling very American anymore. It was a good way to ease into Argentina. I think it´s likely that there are more spanish speakers in Miami than english speakers. I did have one moment of panic in Miami when they called my name over the loud speaker to come the desk. I was terrified that I fucked up some visa requirement and they were going to break my little heart tell ing me I couldn't get on the plane. Luckily, that was just my imagination and they only needed to look at my passport.

And so I´m in Buenos Aires. So far I love it. I have no idea what anybody is saying so I´m spending a lot my time smiling as I say "no entiendo." I think I should learn how to say "I´m starting spanish classes on Monday," so I don´t feel so bad as we struggle to communicate. Tomorrow I´m venturing into the city to find a spanish school. I've got my eye on one that offers tango lessons of the queer variety. Very interesting... In other news the key boards here are different and you'll have to excuse my typos. And now I´m off to get some much needed sleep. Buenas noches.

Goodbye english.

Today is my last day in New Zealand. I have not made my NZ highlights list yet, but I'll share it with you when I do. There's a few things that I'm going to miss for sure, one being english. I'm also going to miss some of the people I've met here in New Zealand. All of my WWOOF hosts here were spectacular. And the couple that I met at Waihoihoi Lodge and stayed with here in Auckland I will be forever grateful to. I think we'll be friends for life. Part of me doesn't even want to leave NZ, but I think the government will give me the boot. And if the government gives me the boot I'll never be able to come back.

Anybody hear about the earthquake in Fiji? It was a 7.1 on the richter scale, but apparently too deep to be felt or to cause a tsunami. Still, it makes me glad that I wasn't there. I can't tell you how many signs were pointing to not going to Fiji and how many times I've been reassured in my decision not to go. I'm guessing that Jen feels the same. But I'll never know seeing as we're not talking anymore. So goes life, eh?

I'm excited and absurdly nervous about Argentina. Fortunately I've got 2 nights booked at what should be a nice hotel. After 30 hours of flying and airports I plan on passing out for two days. I also plan on somehow waking up refreshed and ready to tackle Buenos Aires with my spanish phrase book until I can learn some spanish. Wish me luck.

Anybody make any good New Years resolutions?